GRID GAMES – DISC BATTLE - ADVANCED
This version requires a bit more record keeping as well as at least two dice. Use the Basic rules with the following changes:
Programs now have Levels. Basic Programs start at Level 1. A Program’s Level will have an effect on the number of Action Cards it has as well as how many Actions Card can be held. High level Programs also have the option of being able to use two Discs in battle. The following chart shows the points required for each Program Level and the number of Action Cards they get, as well as how many Action Cards they can hold during the game and how many they may start the game holding.
Points Level Action Cards May hold May start held Other
Start at 0 Level 1 - 4 - 1 - 1 - 1 Disc
8 points Level 2 - 5 - 1 - 1 - 1 Disc
16 points Level 3 - 5 - 2 - 1 - 1 Disc
32 points Level 4 - 5 - 2 - (1 - 2) - 1 Disc
64 points Level 5 - 6 - 2 - (1 - 2) - 1 Disc
128 points Level 6 - 6 - 3 - (1 - 2*) - 2 Discs*
256 points Level 7 - 6 - 3 - (1 - 3*) - 2 Discs*
512 points Level 8 - 7 - 3 - (1 - 3*) - 2 Discs*
1024 points Level 9 - 7 - 4 - (1 - 3*) - 2 Discs*
2048 points Level 10 - 7 - 4 - (1 - 4*) - 2 Discs*
* A Program may use two Discs. If a Program chooses to use two Discs, they remove one of their Action Cards from the battle and start the game with 1 less Action Card held instead.
[Example - A Level 7 Program using 1 Disc has 6 Action Cards and can start the game with up to 3 of them held. A Level 7 Program using 2 Discs has 5 Action Cards and can start the game with up to 2 of them held.]
Setup
During Setup, a Program always starts the game with at least 1 Action Card held. They may hold additional Action Cards at the start depending on their Level. After Level 6, a Program may use a second Disc in a battle. If they do use a second Disc then they must remove one of their Action Cards from the battle and start the game with 1 less Action Card held instead – but they must always start with at least 1 Action Card held.
Skill Test
In the Advanced game, some actions now require a Skill Test. Some tests will give you a number and some Actions, like Block and Dodge, require an opposed Skill Test and will be made against another Program.
To make a Skill Test against a number you roll a die and add the Program’s Level. If the result is equal to or higher than the number needed then the test is passed. If the result is less than the number needed that the test is failed.
To make an opposed Skill Test against another Program you both roll a die and each Program adds their Level to their roll. The Program with the higher total succeeds.
Actions
Block – If you have your Disc and another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to attempt to Block it. Make an opposed Skill Test against the Disc’s owning Program.
If you succeed or tie then you are successful - Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker against your Action Base in the direction shown on the die.
If you fail the Skill Test then you are struck by the Disc.
Dodge - If another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to attempt to Dodge it. Make an opposed Skill Test against the Disc’s owning Program.
If you succeed or tie then you are successful - Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker against your Action Base in the direction shown on the die.
If you fail the Skill Test then you are struck by the Disc.
If you have no actions and want to Dodge then make an opposed Skill Test as above. If you fail then you are stuck by the Disc. If you succeed then you become Prone. If you are already Prone you may not Dodge.
Disc Movement
When moving a thrown Disc, you now can arc it instead of throwing it in a straight line. Instead of placing the Disc Movement Base flush with the end of the Disc Marker by the arrow you may choose to place it at an angle. Place the Disc Movement Base at the angle you wish and make a Skill Test. If the angle is up to 45 degrees you need to make a Skill Test of 6. If the angle is between 45 degrees and 90 degrees you need to make a Skill Test of 10.
If the Skill Test is passed then move the Disc Marker to the other end of the Disc Movement Base. If the Skill Test is failed then move the Disc Movement Base back to be flush with the end of the Disc Marker and then move the Disc marker as normal instead.
A Disc that belongs to a De-Rezzed Program may only move in a straight line – it may not be arced.
Recalling a Thrown Disc – The owning Program may choose to recall their Disc at any time it would normally move. To Recall the Disc you would need to make a Skill Test of 6. If the Disc Marker is more than 4 Action Bases away from the Action Base of the owning Program, then the Skill Test required is 5 instead of 6.
Levels
Programs start at Level 1 with 0 points. They gain points as below by competing in matches. Programs may increase their Level between matches if they have gained enough points. During a match, at the end of every turn, when the Action Cards are shuffled, the scores are saved. If a Program is De-Rezzed, any points they have earned from the last save are lost.
Points are gained for the following:
De-Rezzing a Program – their Program level
In addition, Programs gain the following bonuses for winning:
Winning a solo match – your Program Level x 3
Being part of a winning team – your Program Level x 2
Any Programs that do not gain any points gain their Program Level in points just for being in a match.
Showing posts with label rules. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rules. Show all posts
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Tron - Grid Games - Disc Battle - basic rules
Here are the basic rules. They are pretty fleshed out at this point. I'm still in the process of making counters and advanced rules but this is the gameplay from which I'm basing it.
[BREAK]
Tron - Grid Games - Disc Battle
Each player controls a program in the games. They must battle each other until only one remains.
Alternatively, they can play as teams of 2 - 4 programs until only one team remains.
Components:
Programs - Each Program has unique icon to represent it. You may either use a figure or even one of the 2" program discs. You will need one Program for every player.
Action Base - Each Program also has a 4" Action Base. These are the same for all Programs. You will need one Action Base for each Program plus at least one extra Action Base for movement.
Disc Marker - Each program has a corresponding Disc Marker to represent a thrown Disc. You will need one Disc Marker for each Program. In the advanced game some Programs may have two Discs instead of just one. The Disc Marker is 1" wide and 2" long with an arrow pointing to one of the smaller ends.
Disc Movement Base - You will need at least one Disc Movement Marker in order to move thrown Discs. The Disc Movement Base is 1" wide and 6" long.
Grid - The playing surface is known as the Grid. This is a clearly defined area that can be as small as 12" x 12" for a quick two-player game to 4’ x 4’ or even larger for a multi-team battle. A Grid with sides between 2’ - 3’ long is big enough for up to 6 players.
Action Cards - You will need 5 Action Cards for each Program.
Direction Die - This is a die with arrows on the faces. If you don’t have a Direction Die, every time you would have to roll for random movement of the Disc instead use the direction back to the owning Program instead.
Setup:
Set up the Grid.
Each player takes an Action Base and a Program as well as the corresponding Action Cards and Disc Marker.
Each player places their Action Base on the Grid and places their Program on top of their Action Base. Try to place the Action Bases so that there is room for at least one Action Base between them. If you cannot decide how to place the Programs on the Grid, take an Action Card from each program and shuffle them. Flip the Action Cards over one at a time and place the corresponding program on the Grid at that time.
Each Program starts the game with one Action Card held for reactive actions and the remaining cards are shuffled together and placed face down.
Turn Sequence:
Flip over the top Action Card. The corresponding Program may either perform an active action at that point or hold the Action Card to perform a reactive action later. Players may only hold a maximum of three Action Cards. Actions Cards may be held from turn to turn but once held they cannot be discarded unless used.
After every active action played, any Discs that are already being thrown move. A Disc that was just thrown this action does not move again.
Once all the Action Cards have been turned up and either used or held, reshuffle the used Action Cards and start the next turn. Action Cards that are being held are not reshuffled. Action cards belonging to De-Rezed Programs are removed unless they still have a Thrown Disc in play.
Winning:
The last player or team with an active Program when the others have De-Rezzed wins.
De-Rez.
If you unable to Block or Dodge a Thrown Disc or are unable to Dodge an Attack you are struck by the Disc. You are De-Rezzed and your Program is removed from play as well as you Action Base. If you De-Rez and your Disc is being thrown it De-Rezzes after it hits a wall or another Program or after another Program Blocks it. A Program struck by a Disc belonging to a De-Rezzed Program will still be De-Rezzed before that Disc also De-Rezzes.
Actions:
Each Program has five Action Cards. Each Program starts with one Action Card held for reactive actions. Shuffle the remaining Action Cards.
Programs take actions as their Action Cards are turned over. They may either perform an active action at that point or hold the Action card to perform a reactive action later. Programs may only hold a maximum of three actions. Action Cards may be held from turn to turn but once held they cannot be discarded unless used.
Once all the Action Cards have been turned up and either used or held, reshuffle the used Action Cards and start the next turn. Action Cards that are being held are not reshuffled.
The actions are:
Attack, Block, Catch, Dodge, Move, Stand, and Throw.
The active actions are Attack, Move, Stand, and Throw. These actions may only be preformed when the Program’s Action Card comes up.
The reactive actions are Block, Catch, and Dodge. In order to perform one of these actions you must have an Action Card held already and have your Action Base crossed by a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base or by another Program’s Action Base.
Attack - If you have a Disc and your Action Base overlaps a portion of another figure’s Action Base you may Attack them. They may Dodge your Attack if they have an Action Card held as above.
Block - If you have your Disc and another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to Block it. Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker against your Action Base in the direction shown on the die.
Catch - If your Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may catch it by using an action. If you don’t have any actions you may dive for it - you catch your Disc but now are Prone.
If you moved your Action Base over your Disc Marker you still need to spend an action to make to the catch or you may dive for it. If you dive for it you catch your Disc but are now Prone.
Dodge - If another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to Dodge it. If you have no actions and want to Dodge then you become Prone. If you are already Prone you may not Dodge.
Move - Place a new Action Base adjacent to the one that your Program is currently on and move your Program to that base. If you are unable to place a new base adjacent or you don’t want to move that much, you may place the new base partially covering your current base. If your move causes your Action Base to cross a portion of your Disc Marker you may also attempt a Catch if you have a held action.
Stand - If your Program is Prone, the only action it can perform is to stand up. If you are using the program discs, flip it over to indicate that the Program is no longer Prone. If you are using a figure to represent the Program, then stand the figure back up to indicate that it is no longer Prone.
Throw - If you currently have a Disc you may throw it. Place the one of small end of the Disc Movement Base adjacent to your Action Base in the direction you wish to throw and place the Disc Marker flush at the other end of the Disc Movement Base with the arrow pointing in the direction of the throw.
Disc Movement
When you Throw a Disc, the small end of the Disc Movement Base is placed adjacent to your Action Base in the direction you wish to throw and Disc Marker is placed flush at the other end of the Disc Movement Base with the arrow pointing in the direction of the throw.
After every active action played, any Discs that are already being thrown move. A Disc that was just thrown this action does not move again. Starting with the Program who just played an action, move the Thrown Discs of the Programs clockwise around the table. To move the Disc place a Disc Movement Base flush with the end of the Disc Marker by the arrow. Then move the Disk Marker flush to the other end of the Disc Movement Base.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses a Program’s Action Base and the Disc belongs to that Program they may attempt to Catch it.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses a different Program’s Action Base they may attempt to Block or Dodge it. If they successfully Dodge it then it has no effect on the Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base. If they successfully Block it roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the another Program’s Action Base and that program is Prone then that Program is hit and they De-Rez. Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the edge of the Grid then use geometry to match the incoming angle with the angle of reflection. If this is too hard then roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the another Program’s Disc Marker then nothing happens in the basic game - Thrown Discs ignore other Thrown Discs.
Recalling a Thrown Disc - If a Disc Marker is more than 3 Action Bases away from the Action Base of the owing Program, that Program may choose to Recall it. When the Disc would normally move, place the Disc Movement Base flush with the end of the Disc Marker by the arrow. Instead of moving the Disc Marker to the other end of the Disc Movement Base, turn the Disc Marker around and place the other end of the Disc Marker against the Disc Movement Base. Then turn the Disc Marker so that it points toward the owning Program.
Prone
If a Program is Prone the only action it can perform is to Stand. If a Program is Prone and Attacked by another Program or hit by a Disc then that Program De-Rezzes.
If you are using the program discs, flip it over to indicate that the Program is Prone. If you are using a figure to represent the Program, then lie the figure down to indicate that it is Prone.
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Notes
Still working on the size of the Disc Markers and Disc Movement Bases - originally 1"x4" and 1"x8".
Also originally allowed holding 3 Action Cards but changed to 2 as too hard to De-Rez a program that turtled.
The ‘advanced’ rules include more dice rolling for skill tests - Block, Dodge, Prone as well as the ability to gain levels for bonuses - like using 2 Discs, being able to hold more Action Cards or even starting with more Action Cards held, as well as getting more than 5 Action Cards.
[BREAK]
Tron - Grid Games - Disc Battle
Each player controls a program in the games. They must battle each other until only one remains.
Alternatively, they can play as teams of 2 - 4 programs until only one team remains.
Components:
Programs - Each Program has unique icon to represent it. You may either use a figure or even one of the 2" program discs. You will need one Program for every player.
Action Base - Each Program also has a 4" Action Base. These are the same for all Programs. You will need one Action Base for each Program plus at least one extra Action Base for movement.
Disc Marker - Each program has a corresponding Disc Marker to represent a thrown Disc. You will need one Disc Marker for each Program. In the advanced game some Programs may have two Discs instead of just one. The Disc Marker is 1" wide and 2" long with an arrow pointing to one of the smaller ends.
Disc Movement Base - You will need at least one Disc Movement Marker in order to move thrown Discs. The Disc Movement Base is 1" wide and 6" long.
Grid - The playing surface is known as the Grid. This is a clearly defined area that can be as small as 12" x 12" for a quick two-player game to 4’ x 4’ or even larger for a multi-team battle. A Grid with sides between 2’ - 3’ long is big enough for up to 6 players.
Action Cards - You will need 5 Action Cards for each Program.
Direction Die - This is a die with arrows on the faces. If you don’t have a Direction Die, every time you would have to roll for random movement of the Disc instead use the direction back to the owning Program instead.
Setup:
Set up the Grid.
Each player takes an Action Base and a Program as well as the corresponding Action Cards and Disc Marker.
Each player places their Action Base on the Grid and places their Program on top of their Action Base. Try to place the Action Bases so that there is room for at least one Action Base between them. If you cannot decide how to place the Programs on the Grid, take an Action Card from each program and shuffle them. Flip the Action Cards over one at a time and place the corresponding program on the Grid at that time.
Each Program starts the game with one Action Card held for reactive actions and the remaining cards are shuffled together and placed face down.
Turn Sequence:
Flip over the top Action Card. The corresponding Program may either perform an active action at that point or hold the Action Card to perform a reactive action later. Players may only hold a maximum of three Action Cards. Actions Cards may be held from turn to turn but once held they cannot be discarded unless used.
After every active action played, any Discs that are already being thrown move. A Disc that was just thrown this action does not move again.
Once all the Action Cards have been turned up and either used or held, reshuffle the used Action Cards and start the next turn. Action Cards that are being held are not reshuffled. Action cards belonging to De-Rezed Programs are removed unless they still have a Thrown Disc in play.
Winning:
The last player or team with an active Program when the others have De-Rezzed wins.
De-Rez.
If you unable to Block or Dodge a Thrown Disc or are unable to Dodge an Attack you are struck by the Disc. You are De-Rezzed and your Program is removed from play as well as you Action Base. If you De-Rez and your Disc is being thrown it De-Rezzes after it hits a wall or another Program or after another Program Blocks it. A Program struck by a Disc belonging to a De-Rezzed Program will still be De-Rezzed before that Disc also De-Rezzes.
Actions:
Each Program has five Action Cards. Each Program starts with one Action Card held for reactive actions. Shuffle the remaining Action Cards.
Programs take actions as their Action Cards are turned over. They may either perform an active action at that point or hold the Action card to perform a reactive action later. Programs may only hold a maximum of three actions. Action Cards may be held from turn to turn but once held they cannot be discarded unless used.
Once all the Action Cards have been turned up and either used or held, reshuffle the used Action Cards and start the next turn. Action Cards that are being held are not reshuffled.
The actions are:
Attack, Block, Catch, Dodge, Move, Stand, and Throw.
The active actions are Attack, Move, Stand, and Throw. These actions may only be preformed when the Program’s Action Card comes up.
The reactive actions are Block, Catch, and Dodge. In order to perform one of these actions you must have an Action Card held already and have your Action Base crossed by a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base or by another Program’s Action Base.
Attack - If you have a Disc and your Action Base overlaps a portion of another figure’s Action Base you may Attack them. They may Dodge your Attack if they have an Action Card held as above.
Block - If you have your Disc and another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to Block it. Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker against your Action Base in the direction shown on the die.
Catch - If your Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may catch it by using an action. If you don’t have any actions you may dive for it - you catch your Disc but now are Prone.
If you moved your Action Base over your Disc Marker you still need to spend an action to make to the catch or you may dive for it. If you dive for it you catch your Disc but are now Prone.
Dodge - If another Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses your Action Base you may spend an action to Dodge it. If you have no actions and want to Dodge then you become Prone. If you are already Prone you may not Dodge.
Move - Place a new Action Base adjacent to the one that your Program is currently on and move your Program to that base. If you are unable to place a new base adjacent or you don’t want to move that much, you may place the new base partially covering your current base. If your move causes your Action Base to cross a portion of your Disc Marker you may also attempt a Catch if you have a held action.
Stand - If your Program is Prone, the only action it can perform is to stand up. If you are using the program discs, flip it over to indicate that the Program is no longer Prone. If you are using a figure to represent the Program, then stand the figure back up to indicate that it is no longer Prone.
Throw - If you currently have a Disc you may throw it. Place the one of small end of the Disc Movement Base adjacent to your Action Base in the direction you wish to throw and place the Disc Marker flush at the other end of the Disc Movement Base with the arrow pointing in the direction of the throw.
Disc Movement
When you Throw a Disc, the small end of the Disc Movement Base is placed adjacent to your Action Base in the direction you wish to throw and Disc Marker is placed flush at the other end of the Disc Movement Base with the arrow pointing in the direction of the throw.
After every active action played, any Discs that are already being thrown move. A Disc that was just thrown this action does not move again. Starting with the Program who just played an action, move the Thrown Discs of the Programs clockwise around the table. To move the Disc place a Disc Movement Base flush with the end of the Disc Marker by the arrow. Then move the Disk Marker flush to the other end of the Disc Movement Base.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses a Program’s Action Base and the Disc belongs to that Program they may attempt to Catch it.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses a different Program’s Action Base they may attempt to Block or Dodge it. If they successfully Dodge it then it has no effect on the Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base. If they successfully Block it roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the another Program’s Action Base and that program is Prone then that Program is hit and they De-Rez. Roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the edge of the Grid then use geometry to match the incoming angle with the angle of reflection. If this is too hard then roll the Direction Die and place the small end of the Disc Marker adjacent to that Program’s Action Base in the direction of the arrow on the Direction Die.
If a Disc Marker or Disc Movement Base crosses the another Program’s Disc Marker then nothing happens in the basic game - Thrown Discs ignore other Thrown Discs.
Recalling a Thrown Disc - If a Disc Marker is more than 3 Action Bases away from the Action Base of the owing Program, that Program may choose to Recall it. When the Disc would normally move, place the Disc Movement Base flush with the end of the Disc Marker by the arrow. Instead of moving the Disc Marker to the other end of the Disc Movement Base, turn the Disc Marker around and place the other end of the Disc Marker against the Disc Movement Base. Then turn the Disc Marker so that it points toward the owning Program.
Prone
If a Program is Prone the only action it can perform is to Stand. If a Program is Prone and Attacked by another Program or hit by a Disc then that Program De-Rezzes.
If you are using the program discs, flip it over to indicate that the Program is Prone. If you are using a figure to represent the Program, then lie the figure down to indicate that it is Prone.
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Notes
Still working on the size of the Disc Markers and Disc Movement Bases - originally 1"x4" and 1"x8".
Also originally allowed holding 3 Action Cards but changed to 2 as too hard to De-Rez a program that turtled.
The ‘advanced’ rules include more dice rolling for skill tests - Block, Dodge, Prone as well as the ability to gain levels for bonuses - like using 2 Discs, being able to hold more Action Cards or even starting with more Action Cards held, as well as getting more than 5 Action Cards.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Tron - Disc Battle - first thoughts
Because you never know when an idea will strike you, I keep a small notebook in the car. This way when I am out and about, I can jot down notes. Case in point, coming home on Friday I got stuck in the traffic who had forgot how to drive in the fresh snow. While waiting I came up with a foundation for a Tron disc battle game.
Whenever I come up with a game the tipping point is usually how the movement works.
In this case, since I already have to make a game grid for the Light Cycles game I am making I was thinking about how it would work for figures on a disc battle – especially with how the discs would move. The figures could move on hexes or squares (or even triangles like my Jugger game) but the discs would need to be more freeform.
I was thinking about how they would move on the grid when I realized that they didn’t have to move on a grid at all. They could move independent of the board which would allow the board to remain in a nice grid pattern.
To interact with the figures I decided that the figures would be placed on a separate base that would define its zone of control and that the discs would be on their own counters. Movement would work by putting a new zone of control marker touching the current one and moving the figure to the new marker.
This is what I started with:
Tron – Disc battle
Disc
Thrown – return after 10 spaces
Move – 5 spaces per turn
Can catch own disc
Dodge
Can Block if have disc.
Actions
Figs – [move up to 3 bases?]
5 actions per turn
Move, Throw, Catch, Attack, Block, Dodge
If Dodge and no actions then prone.
I also had drawn a little sketch of a figure on a round base and a disc on a bent wire attached to a rectangular base.
Whenever I come up with a game the tipping point is usually how the movement works.
In this case, since I already have to make a game grid for the Light Cycles game I am making I was thinking about how it would work for figures on a disc battle – especially with how the discs would move. The figures could move on hexes or squares (or even triangles like my Jugger game) but the discs would need to be more freeform.
I was thinking about how they would move on the grid when I realized that they didn’t have to move on a grid at all. They could move independent of the board which would allow the board to remain in a nice grid pattern.
To interact with the figures I decided that the figures would be placed on a separate base that would define its zone of control and that the discs would be on their own counters. Movement would work by putting a new zone of control marker touching the current one and moving the figure to the new marker.
This is what I started with:
Tron – Disc battle
Disc
Thrown – return after 10 spaces
Move – 5 spaces per turn
Can catch own disc
Dodge
Can Block if have disc.
Actions
Figs – [move up to 3 bases?]
5 actions per turn
Move, Throw, Catch, Attack, Block, Dodge
If Dodge and no actions then prone.
I also had drawn a little sketch of a figure on a round base and a disc on a bent wire attached to a rectangular base.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Snafu - intellivision
Back in July of 2009 I had posted this to Game Design Concepts Forum for the game design course I was taking at the time.
We had to take an older video game and translate the rules to be a board game. I didn’t post it here as it is a very simple game. It could also be done with laying tiles into a gridded board.
What has caused me to revisit it though was the new Tron movie and some other games that people have made with light cycles. Using the diecast lightcycles as models and acetate sheets as the trails, this makes it much more visibly interesting. I’m going to have to look at this again with that in mind.
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SNAFU
From INTELLIVISON
Players: 1 or 2
There were 2 main versions of the games (trap or bite) with 16 variations of these on the cartridge. You (and up to 1 other) could control a head that would either create a trail that you would use to block your opponent’s trail to force them into a collision [very similar to the lightcycles in Tron] or in the bite version would try and nibble away at the opponent’s tail. In addition to the two trails that could be player-controlled, there were also an optional two trails that were computer controlled.
I will do the trap version.
The game board is 37 squares across by 21 squares down. In the prototype this is very easily drawn out on a piece of paper and photocopied for the trap games.
In trap games, the trails are represented by marking in the squares with colored pens (crayons/markers) in the variants where the trails remain after a collision. In the variants were the trails disappear after collisions, you could use erasable pencils (or marking in letters for the different-colored trails and erasing the appropriate ones.) Alternatively, you can draw the grid on a dry-erase board and use dry-erase markers for the trails.
You would also need a 6-sided dice.
Game:
The four starting spots are as follows:
The green trail starts 19 in and 5 down. This is optional and game controlled.
The red trail starts 6 in and 11 down. This can be a player controlled trail.
The blue trail starts 32 in and 11 down. This can be a player controlled trail.
The yellow trail starts 19 in and 33 down. This is optional and game controlled.
The basic rules:
1. Each turn fill in a new square attached to the end of your line. (You may not wrap around off end side to the other).
2. If there are no squares for you to add to the end of your line you have a collision and your game ends.
3. If two trails want to enter the same square – both trails roll a dice – with the higher roll getting to add that square first. A tie would mean that both trails have a collision with each other.
4. The last trail still able to play wins.
The game controlled lines always move in a straight line if possible. If doing so would cause a collision, then they move to a random non-colliding space. If they have no valid spaces in which to move, then they have a collision.
The starting direction is decided by rolling d6. If diagonal lines are allowed, then a second roll is needed - 1-3 diagonal, 4-6 non-diagonal. If diagonal then roll again - 1 up left, 2 up right, 3 down right, 4 down left, 5-6 roll again. If non-diagonal then roll again - 1 up, 2 right, 3 down, 4 left, 5-6 roll again.
The variant rules:
Players – the red and blue lines are always in play. The variant would allow all four lines to play. [In a board game version – all 4 lines could be player-controlled.]
Movement – all lines only move to adjacent horizontal or vertical spaces. The variant would allow diagonal moves.
Trails – normally the trails remain after collisions. The variant causes the trails to be erased after the trail has a collision.
Obstacles – Obstacles are 2x2 square boxes that are placed on the board. Trails may not move through obstacles. Normally there are no obstacles on the board. The variant allows 5-8 [4+1/2(d6)] obstacles to be placed on the board.
We had to take an older video game and translate the rules to be a board game. I didn’t post it here as it is a very simple game. It could also be done with laying tiles into a gridded board.
What has caused me to revisit it though was the new Tron movie and some other games that people have made with light cycles. Using the diecast lightcycles as models and acetate sheets as the trails, this makes it much more visibly interesting. I’m going to have to look at this again with that in mind.
- - -
SNAFU
From INTELLIVISON
Players: 1 or 2
There were 2 main versions of the games (trap or bite) with 16 variations of these on the cartridge. You (and up to 1 other) could control a head that would either create a trail that you would use to block your opponent’s trail to force them into a collision [very similar to the lightcycles in Tron] or in the bite version would try and nibble away at the opponent’s tail. In addition to the two trails that could be player-controlled, there were also an optional two trails that were computer controlled.
I will do the trap version.
The game board is 37 squares across by 21 squares down. In the prototype this is very easily drawn out on a piece of paper and photocopied for the trap games.
In trap games, the trails are represented by marking in the squares with colored pens (crayons/markers) in the variants where the trails remain after a collision. In the variants were the trails disappear after collisions, you could use erasable pencils (or marking in letters for the different-colored trails and erasing the appropriate ones.) Alternatively, you can draw the grid on a dry-erase board and use dry-erase markers for the trails.
You would also need a 6-sided dice.
Game:
The four starting spots are as follows:
The green trail starts 19 in and 5 down. This is optional and game controlled.
The red trail starts 6 in and 11 down. This can be a player controlled trail.
The blue trail starts 32 in and 11 down. This can be a player controlled trail.
The yellow trail starts 19 in and 33 down. This is optional and game controlled.
The basic rules:
1. Each turn fill in a new square attached to the end of your line. (You may not wrap around off end side to the other).
2. If there are no squares for you to add to the end of your line you have a collision and your game ends.
3. If two trails want to enter the same square – both trails roll a dice – with the higher roll getting to add that square first. A tie would mean that both trails have a collision with each other.
4. The last trail still able to play wins.
The game controlled lines always move in a straight line if possible. If doing so would cause a collision, then they move to a random non-colliding space. If they have no valid spaces in which to move, then they have a collision.
The starting direction is decided by rolling d6. If diagonal lines are allowed, then a second roll is needed - 1-3 diagonal, 4-6 non-diagonal. If diagonal then roll again - 1 up left, 2 up right, 3 down right, 4 down left, 5-6 roll again. If non-diagonal then roll again - 1 up, 2 right, 3 down, 4 left, 5-6 roll again.
The variant rules:
Players – the red and blue lines are always in play. The variant would allow all four lines to play. [In a board game version – all 4 lines could be player-controlled.]
Movement – all lines only move to adjacent horizontal or vertical spaces. The variant would allow diagonal moves.
Trails – normally the trails remain after collisions. The variant causes the trails to be erased after the trail has a collision.
Obstacles – Obstacles are 2x2 square boxes that are placed on the board. Trails may not move through obstacles. Normally there are no obstacles on the board. The variant allows 5-8 [4+1/2(d6)] obstacles to be placed on the board.
Friday, December 11, 2009
G'nerts!
Here are the rules for another card game that we used to play in our youth. I'm also teaching the kids. It's good for 2, 3, or 4 as needed.
G’nerts
Remove the jokers from two decks with different backs. Each player takes a deck and shuffles it. They switch decks and each quickly deals out a Pile of 13 cards face down and a row of 4 face up cards to form your Stock. Flip the top card of your Pile face up. If you are playing with a partner, they usually handle the Pile. The remaining cards form your Stack. Between both Stocks is a Scoring Area.
Cards are played into the Scoring Area in sequence by suit starting with the aces and ending with the kings. For example, a 2 of hearts may only be played onto an ace of hearts. There is enough room for all eight aces to be in the Scoring Area at once. Both players are able to play on top of the cards played by either player. If both players try to play the same card at the same time, the card played first remains and the other player has to put their card back.
Cards in your Stock may be played in descending order alternating color between red and black (a red 5 may be placed on a black 6). Entire columns in your Stock can be moved as long as they can follow this rule – columns cannot be split. The top card on any column may be played to the Scoring Area as allowed. When a column is empty, either by being moved on to another column or by having the last card played into the Scoring Area, the space is filled with the top card of the Pile.
The remaining cards in your Stack are flipped over in threes by sliding three cards off the top of the Stack and flipping them over without changing the order of those three cards. The top card of these three may be played to the Stock or Scoring Area as allowed. Others cards from this flip are also able to be played as they are revealed. If you are able to play all three cards, you may then play the top of the previous flips as it is revealed. When you flip the last of the Stack, when you are unable to play further from the flips, pick up the flipped cards and start flipping again. As long as one player is able to play, keep flipping through the Stack as new cards played into the Scoring Area affect which cards are able to be played.
When both players are at a standstill, without being able to play any cards from their Pile, Stock, or Stack, they may both agree to take the top card of their Stack and put it on the bottom of their Stack. Then they start flipping by threes again. When they have done this three times, the next time they come to a standstill, the round ends.
The top card of your Pile may be played to the Stock or may be played directly into the Scoring Area as allowed. The new card at the top of the Pile is then flipped face up. When the last card in the Pile is played, either to the Stock or Scoring area, the player calls out “G’NERTS” and all play freezes and the round ends.
When the round ends, all cards in the Scoring area are mixed together and sorted according to the backs. Both players score the number of their cards played into the Scoring Area less double the number of cards left in their Pile. A player can have cards left in their Pile and still score more than their opponent for the round. The totals (plus or minus) are added to their total for the game. The game is usually played to 100 although you can play to higher amounts – 500, 1000, or so on.
G’nerts
Remove the jokers from two decks with different backs. Each player takes a deck and shuffles it. They switch decks and each quickly deals out a Pile of 13 cards face down and a row of 4 face up cards to form your Stock. Flip the top card of your Pile face up. If you are playing with a partner, they usually handle the Pile. The remaining cards form your Stack. Between both Stocks is a Scoring Area.
Cards are played into the Scoring Area in sequence by suit starting with the aces and ending with the kings. For example, a 2 of hearts may only be played onto an ace of hearts. There is enough room for all eight aces to be in the Scoring Area at once. Both players are able to play on top of the cards played by either player. If both players try to play the same card at the same time, the card played first remains and the other player has to put their card back.
Cards in your Stock may be played in descending order alternating color between red and black (a red 5 may be placed on a black 6). Entire columns in your Stock can be moved as long as they can follow this rule – columns cannot be split. The top card on any column may be played to the Scoring Area as allowed. When a column is empty, either by being moved on to another column or by having the last card played into the Scoring Area, the space is filled with the top card of the Pile.
The remaining cards in your Stack are flipped over in threes by sliding three cards off the top of the Stack and flipping them over without changing the order of those three cards. The top card of these three may be played to the Stock or Scoring Area as allowed. Others cards from this flip are also able to be played as they are revealed. If you are able to play all three cards, you may then play the top of the previous flips as it is revealed. When you flip the last of the Stack, when you are unable to play further from the flips, pick up the flipped cards and start flipping again. As long as one player is able to play, keep flipping through the Stack as new cards played into the Scoring Area affect which cards are able to be played.
When both players are at a standstill, without being able to play any cards from their Pile, Stock, or Stack, they may both agree to take the top card of their Stack and put it on the bottom of their Stack. Then they start flipping by threes again. When they have done this three times, the next time they come to a standstill, the round ends.
The top card of your Pile may be played to the Stock or may be played directly into the Scoring Area as allowed. The new card at the top of the Pile is then flipped face up. When the last card in the Pile is played, either to the Stock or Scoring area, the player calls out “G’NERTS” and all play freezes and the round ends.
When the round ends, all cards in the Scoring area are mixed together and sorted according to the backs. Both players score the number of their cards played into the Scoring Area less double the number of cards left in their Pile. A player can have cards left in their Pile and still score more than their opponent for the round. The totals (plus or minus) are added to their total for the game. The game is usually played to 100 although you can play to higher amounts – 500, 1000, or so on.
Friday, September 4, 2009
Prêt? Allez!
Prêt? Allez!
This game simulates a fencing bout with foils.
Players
2
Components
1 board – representing the piste (or mat on which the bout takes place) and scoring towers.
2 fencer counters – 1 for each player
2 score counters – 1 for each player
1 priority counter [for foil and sabre bouts]
2 decks for each weapon – 1 for each player
Each Foil deck has the following cards:
14 Atack
12 Parry
4 Advance
4 Retreat
4 Lunge
2 Balestra
2 Stop Hit
4 Riposte
2 Beat Attack
2 Feint
Setup
Place the board within reach of both players. Each player takes a fencer counter and places it on the pieste in the third square from their end (the fencers start at opposite ends of the pieste). Each player takes a score counter. Each player takes one of the decks and shuffles it. Each player takes five cards from their deck to form their staring hand. The older player starts with priority and takes the first turn - place the priority counter on the on the board on their side. Decide to how many hits you are playing – 1 to 5. (3 is standard, 5 makes for a long game, 1 is a quick game but gives the advantage to the player starting with priority)
To Win
When a player scores a hit and has reached the number of hits agreed upon at the start of the game, they win.
Rules
At the start of your turn, draw a card from your deck and place it in your hand. Then play a card from your hand. Some cards will allow you to play additional cards as well. There is no limit on the number of cards that you can hold in your hand.
As long as a player has at least 1 card in their hand they may use the ADVANCE or RETREAT card printed on the board instead of playing a card from their hand. Note that the board versions of these cards differ from the actual card versions.
If there are no more cards in your deck to draw you can still play cards from your hand. If you have no more cards in your deck and hand, the only thing you may do is pass – if you have priority you lose it to your opponent. If both players have no cards in both their decks and hands then see Corps-a-corps.
Certain cards (ADVANCE, LUNGE, BALESTRA) allow you to move forward. You may not move on to the same space as your opponent. If you are already adjacent to your opponent, you may not move forward so you may not play an ADVANCE card – including the board ADVANCE card.
If you are at the last space you are unable to retreat off the end of the board without your opponent scoring a hit. You may play a RETREAT card from your hand but you are unable to play the board RETREAT card while on the last space.
If your opponent had played an attack card last turn and you are unable to play a PARRY or RETREAT (including the board RETREAT) then your opponent scores a hit. They may place their hit counter on the board in the bottom spot if it is not on the board yet. If their hit counter is already on the board then they may move it up one spot. Most bouts are usually played until the first player scores three hits although the game may be played to any agreed upon limit between one and five.
If a hit is scored but the agreed upon limit hasn’t been reached, then both players replace their fencer counters to their starting positions. The priority counter goes to the player that was just hit. Both players shuffle their hand, discard pile, and deck together to form their new deck and draw five cards. The player with priority gets to start the new round. Play proceeds as before until someone scores a hit or corps-a-corps is reached.
Corps-a-corps is reached when the bout is at a standstill. Both fencers need to reset. Each player shuffles their discard pile to form their new deck and draw five cards. Priority remains with the player who already has it. The fencing counters need to be moved to be two spaces apart as follows:
a) If the counters are two spaces apart, they remain where they are.
b) If the counters are more than two spaces apart, the counter that is farther from the center is moved forward until it is two spaces away from the other counter.
c) If the counters are one space apart, the counter that is closer to the center is moved back one space.
d) If the counters are adjacent, and neither counter is on the last space, then both counters are moved back one space.
e) If the counters are adjacent, and one counter is on the last space, then the other counter is moved back two spaces.
Cards
The cards all have a quick reference printed on them. A more detailed set of rules is listed below.
The board ADVANCE card – “Move 1 space forward. Discard two cards from your hand and draw two cards.”
You must have at least 1 card in your hand in order to use the board ADVANCE card. If you only have 1 card in your hand you must discard it and draw two cards. If you only have 1 card in your deck you only draw it instead. If you have no cards left in your deck, you do not draw any cards. If you are already adjacent to your opponent, you are unable to play the board ADVANCE card.
The board RETREAT card – “Move 1 space back. Discard your hand and draw 5 cards. Lose priority.”
You must have at least 1 card in your hand in order to use the board RETREAT card. If you are unable to draw the entire 5 cards from your deck, draw as many as you are able. If you have priority you lose it. If your opponent played an attack on their turn, this card avoids that attack. If you are at the last space you may not play the board RETREAT card.
ADVANCE – “Move 1 space forward. Discard 1 to 3 cards and draw the same number to replace them.”
If you already adjacent to your opponent, you may not play ADVANCE. If you are not able to discard at least 1 card from your hand, you are not able to play ADVANCE.
ATTACK – “You must be adjacent to your opponent and have priority to play.”
If you are not adjacent to your opponent, you may not play this card unless another card allows you to play it. If your opponent is unable to avoid this attack then you score a hit. Unless allowed by another card, you must have priority to play an ATTACK card.
BALESTRA – “You may move forward 1 space and play an ATTACK card. Your opponent may not RETREAT from this ATTACK and you may not RETREAT from their ATTACK. You need priority to play.”
You may only play this card if you are 1 space away from or adjacent to your opponent. If you are 1 space away from your opponent, move your fencer counter forward 1 space. You need to play an ATTACK card with BALESTRA in order to play this card. You must have priority in order to play a BALESTRA card. Your opponent may not play a RETREAT or board RETREAT to avoid your attack. If they are able to ATTACK back in response to your attack (by using a RIPOSTE) you are not able to play a RETREAT or board RETREAT to avoid their ATTACK.
BEAT ATTACK – “If your opponent is adjacent and has priority but did not ATTACK, you gain priority and play an ATTACK.”
You may only play this card if you are adjacent to your opponent and they have priority but did not play an ATTACK or FEINT on their last turn. You need to play an ATTACK card with BEAT ATTACK in order to play this card. You gain priority.
FEINT – “Play in place of an ATTACK. This is not a scoring ATTACK.”
If you are adjacent to your opponent and have priority, you play this card. If your opponent is unable to avoid this attack then you do not score a hit. If another card requires you to play an ATTACK card, you may play a FEINT instead.
LUNGE – “You may move forward 1 space. Play an ATTACK card. You need priority to play.”
You may only play this card if you are 1 space away from or adjacent to your opponent. If you are 1 space away from your opponent, move your fencer counter forward 1 space. You need to be able to play an ATTACK card in order to play this card. You must have priority in order to play a LUNGE card.
PARRY – “This card avoids the ATTACK.”
If your opponent played an ATTACK card you may play a PARRY card. You may not play a PARRY card if your opponent did not play an ATTACK (or FEINT) card. This prevents the ATTACK from scoring a hit.
RETREAT – “Move 1 space back. Discard 3 cards and draw to replace them. Lose priority”
If you are unable to discard 3 cards from your hand you may not play this card. If you are unable to draw the entire 3 cards from your deck, draw as many as you are able. If you have priority you lose it. If your opponent played an attack on their turn, this card avoids that attack. If you are at the last space you may still play the RETREAT card but your opponent will score a hit.
RIPOSTE – “Play with a PARRY to gain priority. Play an ATTACK.”
You may only play this card if your opponent played an ATTACK last turn. You need to be adjacent to your opponent in order to play this card. In order to play this card you must also have played a PARRY card this turn and you need to play an ATTACK card with RIPOSTE in order to play this card. You gain priority.
STOP HIT – “If your opponent has priority and moved adjacent but did not ATTACK, play an ATTACK.”
You may not play this card if you have priority. On their last turn, your opponent must have moved adjacent to you and did not play an ATTACK card in order for you to be able to play STOP HIT. You need to play an ATTACK card with STOP HIT in order to play this card. You do not gain priority.
- - - -
1 board – representing the piste (or mat on which the bout takes place). The board is in landscape format – 18” wide and 9” high. On each side is the player’s scoring track. The name is on the top of the board, below is the track for the fencing counters. Below this is the indicator for priority. At the bottom is the information on the two movements always available to players without playing a card – Advance and Retreat. The scoring tracks have 5 spaces. The piste is 9 spaces long – with a mark in the third space from each end to denote the starting space (e.g. 1 – 2 – A start – 4 – 5- 6- B start – 8 – 9).
2 fencer counters – 1 for each player. These will be 1.5" square cardboard counters with a picture of a fencer on them. (The deluxe version would have wooden counters that have a fencer printed on both sides)
2 score counters – 1 for each player. These will be 3/4" by 1" cardboard counters. (The deluxe version would have wooden counters)
1 priority counter. This would be a 3/4" by 2" cardboard counter with the word "PRIORITY" superimpsed over a faded foil. (The deluxe version would have a wooden counter with the same printing)
2 decks for each weapon – 1 for each player. These would be standard bridge sized cards in portrait format. The name of the card (ATTACK, PARRY, RIPOSTE, etc) would be in large print across the top one-fifths of the card. The rules for the card would be in the bottom two-fifths of the card. A picture of a fencer performing the action would be in the two-fifths between these. At the bottom of each deck in small print would be a line giving deck to which the card belongs. (eg A - FOIL)
This game simulates a fencing bout with foils.
Players
2
Components
1 board – representing the piste (or mat on which the bout takes place) and scoring towers.
2 fencer counters – 1 for each player
2 score counters – 1 for each player
1 priority counter [for foil and sabre bouts]
2 decks for each weapon – 1 for each player
Each Foil deck has the following cards:
14 Atack
12 Parry
4 Advance
4 Retreat
4 Lunge
2 Balestra
2 Stop Hit
4 Riposte
2 Beat Attack
2 Feint
Setup
Place the board within reach of both players. Each player takes a fencer counter and places it on the pieste in the third square from their end (the fencers start at opposite ends of the pieste). Each player takes a score counter. Each player takes one of the decks and shuffles it. Each player takes five cards from their deck to form their staring hand. The older player starts with priority and takes the first turn - place the priority counter on the on the board on their side. Decide to how many hits you are playing – 1 to 5. (3 is standard, 5 makes for a long game, 1 is a quick game but gives the advantage to the player starting with priority)
To Win
When a player scores a hit and has reached the number of hits agreed upon at the start of the game, they win.
Rules
At the start of your turn, draw a card from your deck and place it in your hand. Then play a card from your hand. Some cards will allow you to play additional cards as well. There is no limit on the number of cards that you can hold in your hand.
As long as a player has at least 1 card in their hand they may use the ADVANCE or RETREAT card printed on the board instead of playing a card from their hand. Note that the board versions of these cards differ from the actual card versions.
If there are no more cards in your deck to draw you can still play cards from your hand. If you have no more cards in your deck and hand, the only thing you may do is pass – if you have priority you lose it to your opponent. If both players have no cards in both their decks and hands then see Corps-a-corps.
Certain cards (ADVANCE, LUNGE, BALESTRA) allow you to move forward. You may not move on to the same space as your opponent. If you are already adjacent to your opponent, you may not move forward so you may not play an ADVANCE card – including the board ADVANCE card.
If you are at the last space you are unable to retreat off the end of the board without your opponent scoring a hit. You may play a RETREAT card from your hand but you are unable to play the board RETREAT card while on the last space.
If your opponent had played an attack card last turn and you are unable to play a PARRY or RETREAT (including the board RETREAT) then your opponent scores a hit. They may place their hit counter on the board in the bottom spot if it is not on the board yet. If their hit counter is already on the board then they may move it up one spot. Most bouts are usually played until the first player scores three hits although the game may be played to any agreed upon limit between one and five.
If a hit is scored but the agreed upon limit hasn’t been reached, then both players replace their fencer counters to their starting positions. The priority counter goes to the player that was just hit. Both players shuffle their hand, discard pile, and deck together to form their new deck and draw five cards. The player with priority gets to start the new round. Play proceeds as before until someone scores a hit or corps-a-corps is reached.
Corps-a-corps is reached when the bout is at a standstill. Both fencers need to reset. Each player shuffles their discard pile to form their new deck and draw five cards. Priority remains with the player who already has it. The fencing counters need to be moved to be two spaces apart as follows:
a) If the counters are two spaces apart, they remain where they are.
b) If the counters are more than two spaces apart, the counter that is farther from the center is moved forward until it is two spaces away from the other counter.
c) If the counters are one space apart, the counter that is closer to the center is moved back one space.
d) If the counters are adjacent, and neither counter is on the last space, then both counters are moved back one space.
e) If the counters are adjacent, and one counter is on the last space, then the other counter is moved back two spaces.
Cards
The cards all have a quick reference printed on them. A more detailed set of rules is listed below.
The board ADVANCE card – “Move 1 space forward. Discard two cards from your hand and draw two cards.”
You must have at least 1 card in your hand in order to use the board ADVANCE card. If you only have 1 card in your hand you must discard it and draw two cards. If you only have 1 card in your deck you only draw it instead. If you have no cards left in your deck, you do not draw any cards. If you are already adjacent to your opponent, you are unable to play the board ADVANCE card.
The board RETREAT card – “Move 1 space back. Discard your hand and draw 5 cards. Lose priority.”
You must have at least 1 card in your hand in order to use the board RETREAT card. If you are unable to draw the entire 5 cards from your deck, draw as many as you are able. If you have priority you lose it. If your opponent played an attack on their turn, this card avoids that attack. If you are at the last space you may not play the board RETREAT card.
ADVANCE – “Move 1 space forward. Discard 1 to 3 cards and draw the same number to replace them.”
If you already adjacent to your opponent, you may not play ADVANCE. If you are not able to discard at least 1 card from your hand, you are not able to play ADVANCE.
ATTACK – “You must be adjacent to your opponent and have priority to play.”
If you are not adjacent to your opponent, you may not play this card unless another card allows you to play it. If your opponent is unable to avoid this attack then you score a hit. Unless allowed by another card, you must have priority to play an ATTACK card.
BALESTRA – “You may move forward 1 space and play an ATTACK card. Your opponent may not RETREAT from this ATTACK and you may not RETREAT from their ATTACK. You need priority to play.”
You may only play this card if you are 1 space away from or adjacent to your opponent. If you are 1 space away from your opponent, move your fencer counter forward 1 space. You need to play an ATTACK card with BALESTRA in order to play this card. You must have priority in order to play a BALESTRA card. Your opponent may not play a RETREAT or board RETREAT to avoid your attack. If they are able to ATTACK back in response to your attack (by using a RIPOSTE) you are not able to play a RETREAT or board RETREAT to avoid their ATTACK.
BEAT ATTACK – “If your opponent is adjacent and has priority but did not ATTACK, you gain priority and play an ATTACK.”
You may only play this card if you are adjacent to your opponent and they have priority but did not play an ATTACK or FEINT on their last turn. You need to play an ATTACK card with BEAT ATTACK in order to play this card. You gain priority.
FEINT – “Play in place of an ATTACK. This is not a scoring ATTACK.”
If you are adjacent to your opponent and have priority, you play this card. If your opponent is unable to avoid this attack then you do not score a hit. If another card requires you to play an ATTACK card, you may play a FEINT instead.
LUNGE – “You may move forward 1 space. Play an ATTACK card. You need priority to play.”
You may only play this card if you are 1 space away from or adjacent to your opponent. If you are 1 space away from your opponent, move your fencer counter forward 1 space. You need to be able to play an ATTACK card in order to play this card. You must have priority in order to play a LUNGE card.
PARRY – “This card avoids the ATTACK.”
If your opponent played an ATTACK card you may play a PARRY card. You may not play a PARRY card if your opponent did not play an ATTACK (or FEINT) card. This prevents the ATTACK from scoring a hit.
RETREAT – “Move 1 space back. Discard 3 cards and draw to replace them. Lose priority”
If you are unable to discard 3 cards from your hand you may not play this card. If you are unable to draw the entire 3 cards from your deck, draw as many as you are able. If you have priority you lose it. If your opponent played an attack on their turn, this card avoids that attack. If you are at the last space you may still play the RETREAT card but your opponent will score a hit.
RIPOSTE – “Play with a PARRY to gain priority. Play an ATTACK.”
You may only play this card if your opponent played an ATTACK last turn. You need to be adjacent to your opponent in order to play this card. In order to play this card you must also have played a PARRY card this turn and you need to play an ATTACK card with RIPOSTE in order to play this card. You gain priority.
STOP HIT – “If your opponent has priority and moved adjacent but did not ATTACK, play an ATTACK.”
You may not play this card if you have priority. On their last turn, your opponent must have moved adjacent to you and did not play an ATTACK card in order for you to be able to play STOP HIT. You need to play an ATTACK card with STOP HIT in order to play this card. You do not gain priority.
- - - -
1 board – representing the piste (or mat on which the bout takes place). The board is in landscape format – 18” wide and 9” high. On each side is the player’s scoring track. The name is on the top of the board, below is the track for the fencing counters. Below this is the indicator for priority. At the bottom is the information on the two movements always available to players without playing a card – Advance and Retreat. The scoring tracks have 5 spaces. The piste is 9 spaces long – with a mark in the third space from each end to denote the starting space (e.g. 1 – 2 – A start – 4 – 5- 6- B start – 8 – 9).
2 fencer counters – 1 for each player. These will be 1.5" square cardboard counters with a picture of a fencer on them. (The deluxe version would have wooden counters that have a fencer printed on both sides)
2 score counters – 1 for each player. These will be 3/4" by 1" cardboard counters. (The deluxe version would have wooden counters)
1 priority counter. This would be a 3/4" by 2" cardboard counter with the word "PRIORITY" superimpsed over a faded foil. (The deluxe version would have a wooden counter with the same printing)
2 decks for each weapon – 1 for each player. These would be standard bridge sized cards in portrait format. The name of the card (ATTACK, PARRY, RIPOSTE, etc) would be in large print across the top one-fifths of the card. The rules for the card would be in the bottom two-fifths of the card. A picture of a fencer performing the action would be in the two-fifths between these. At the bottom of each deck in small print would be a line giving deck to which the card belongs. (eg A - FOIL)
Monday, July 20, 2009
My Pet card game
So, for challenge 6 we had a few options of which to do. I went back on forth on which one to do. One was to take the game Risk and modify the rules to advocate world peace. I toyed with this one for a while but couldn’t come up with a set of rules that would still maintain the fun of the game.
I ended up doing the option to create a game that introduces the concept of grief to children. I came up with the following:
For dealing with grief I have designed a card game to deal with the life, and ultimately the death, of a pet. While the deck presented below is set up as a ‘dog’ deck, it would be easy to modify for other pets – cats, fish, hamsters, etc (for shorter lived pets the age cards would be months instead of years).
This can be played as a solo game or as with other children. Each child would have their own deck and take turns playing as below. The decks don’t mix.
The 50 card deck consists of the following cards:
1 Young Pet card – depicting a puppy. Text: ”Young Pet. Start with this card in play.”
1 Adult Pet card – depicting the adult dog. Text: “Adult Pet”
1 Passing/death/better place card – depicting a pleasant afterwards (example – tree on a hill, empty field, sunny day, rainbow, etc). Text: “Passing”
20 age cards – depicting a birthday cake. Text: “Age”
10 play cards – depicting a ball or a stick/Frisbee being thrown. Text: “Play. 1 point”
10 training cards – depicting a leash or a whistle. Text “Training”
1 simple trick card – depicting a begging dog. Text: “Simple Trick: Beg. Needs 1 Training. 2 points”
1 simple trick card – depicting a dog barking. Text: “Simple Trick: Speak. Needs 1 Training. 2 points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog running with a stick in its mouth. Text: “Trick: Fetch. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog walking behind legs. Text: “Trick: Heel. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog lying down. Text: “Trick: Play Dead. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog sitting. Text: “Trick: Stay. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog rolling over. Text: “Trick: Roll Over. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
Rules (for younger children):
Remove the Young Pet, Adult Pet, and Passing cards from the deck and place aside. Shuffle the remaining cards and place the deck face down. Place the Young Pet in front of you and draw 3 cards to start.
The turn sequence:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- You may play one Age card.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- Once you have 10 Age cards in play, change your Pet card to the Adult Pet.
- Once you have 20 Age cards in play, change your Pet card to the Passing card. Add up your Play and Trick cards to see what kind of life your pet had.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
Rules (for older children):
Remove the Young Pet and Adult Pet from the deck and place aside. Shuffle the remaining cards (including the Passing card) and place the deck face down. Place the Young Pet in front of you and draw 5 cards to start.
While the Young Pet is in play:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- You may play one Age card.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- If you draw the Passing card, change your Pet card to the Adult Pet. Place the Passing card in the discard pile, and reshuffle the discards and the remaining cards in the deck together and place the deck face down.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
While the Adult Pet is in play:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- Play any Age cards in your hand.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- If you draw the Passing card, the game ends. Add up your Play and Trick cards to see what kind of life your pet had.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
I ended up doing the option to create a game that introduces the concept of grief to children. I came up with the following:
For dealing with grief I have designed a card game to deal with the life, and ultimately the death, of a pet. While the deck presented below is set up as a ‘dog’ deck, it would be easy to modify for other pets – cats, fish, hamsters, etc (for shorter lived pets the age cards would be months instead of years).
This can be played as a solo game or as with other children. Each child would have their own deck and take turns playing as below. The decks don’t mix.
The 50 card deck consists of the following cards:
1 Young Pet card – depicting a puppy. Text: ”Young Pet. Start with this card in play.”
1 Adult Pet card – depicting the adult dog. Text: “Adult Pet”
1 Passing/death/better place card – depicting a pleasant afterwards (example – tree on a hill, empty field, sunny day, rainbow, etc). Text: “Passing”
20 age cards – depicting a birthday cake. Text: “Age”
10 play cards – depicting a ball or a stick/Frisbee being thrown. Text: “Play. 1 point”
10 training cards – depicting a leash or a whistle. Text “Training”
1 simple trick card – depicting a begging dog. Text: “Simple Trick: Beg. Needs 1 Training. 2 points”
1 simple trick card – depicting a dog barking. Text: “Simple Trick: Speak. Needs 1 Training. 2 points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog running with a stick in its mouth. Text: “Trick: Fetch. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog walking behind legs. Text: “Trick: Heel. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog lying down. Text: “Trick: Play Dead. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog sitting. Text: “Trick: Stay. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
1 trick card – depicting a dog rolling over. Text: “Trick: Roll Over. Needs 2 Training. 3 Points”
Rules (for younger children):
Remove the Young Pet, Adult Pet, and Passing cards from the deck and place aside. Shuffle the remaining cards and place the deck face down. Place the Young Pet in front of you and draw 3 cards to start.
The turn sequence:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- You may play one Age card.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- Once you have 10 Age cards in play, change your Pet card to the Adult Pet.
- Once you have 20 Age cards in play, change your Pet card to the Passing card. Add up your Play and Trick cards to see what kind of life your pet had.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
Rules (for older children):
Remove the Young Pet and Adult Pet from the deck and place aside. Shuffle the remaining cards (including the Passing card) and place the deck face down. Place the Young Pet in front of you and draw 5 cards to start.
While the Young Pet is in play:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- You may play one Age card.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- If you draw the Passing card, change your Pet card to the Adult Pet. Place the Passing card in the discard pile, and reshuffle the discards and the remaining cards in the deck together and place the deck face down.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
While the Adult Pet is in play:
- Draw a card to start your turn.
- Play any Age cards in your hand.
- You may also play one of the following cards. Note that you may not have more scoring cards in play than Age cards.
- Play a Play card.
- Play a Training card.
- If you have enough Training cards in play you may play a Trick card. Discard the needed amount of Training cards from play as are on the Trick card.
- If you have more than 5 cards in your hand, discard a card. You may not discard an Age card.
- If you draw the Passing card, the game ends. Add up your Play and Trick cards to see what kind of life your pet had.
- The next player may now take a turn or go back to start of the turn if you are playing by yourself.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Air Superiority
I'm enjoying the game design course I signed up for.
The first real assignment was to design a World War I game where the primary objective of the players could not be territorial control, or capture/destroy.
Since that would leave out most of the trench warfare, and with my exposure and research I had done for Canvas Eagles, I made an airplane technology game.
Even with the standard caveats, it hasn't been tested enough; it needs more detail; I was rushed - I'm still pretty happy with the mechanics. It expresses the concepts I was trying to get across. Give it a try if you get a chance.
AIR SUPERIORITY
by DKWD
In World War I the ground battle had quickly settled into a locked battle of the trenches. In the air however, the war quickly drove research into the new technology of air warfare.
Goal:
In this two-player game, you have to try and move your technology along in aircraft development while preventing your opponent from doing the same.
Contents:
these rules,
the Technology Chart,
17 counters (9 for each player, and 1 timeline marker),
and some 6-sided dice (up to 10).
Set up:
Decide which side the players Place a counter on the Timeline on Fall 1914. Each player places a counter on their Resource track on the 10 and a counter on the Technology track on the first box.
Game play:
Each turn represents the development in 6 months of the war. Both players’ turns take place simultaneously for each step.
Assign Resources:
Each player’s Resource track will have a marker showing the current value of your country’s resources that they can allot to air superiority.
You can use the resources to buy planes at any of the current levels available to you (at applicable costs) – just move the Plane markers up one for each purchase. Some planes will allow you to make Resource attacks or Dogfights. The starting planes will only allow you to make Resource attacks.
You can also use the remaining resources to purchase rolls on the Research Track. Rolls are purchased at 1 roll per resource – move the Research marker up one per purchase.
Once all your purchases are made, reset your Resource track counter to 10 for the next turn. You can’t save resources from one turn to the next.
Research Roll:
The counter on your Research track indicates the amount of dice to roll to see if you can develop the next level of technology.
If you roll a 6 on any of the dice, you may advance your marker on the Technology track to the next level. You may only advance once per turn regardless of how many 6s you roll.
Once you have rolled all the dice allowed, reset your Research track marker back to 0.
Resource Attacks:
Decide which planes which have the capability to make Resource attacks will be doing so this turn. These planes will not be available for Dogfights this turn.
Starting at Technology level 1, roll for those planes making Resource attacks – the value needed to roll is on the Technology Chart. If you roll the value needed, your opponent has to move his marker on his Resource track down one. If you roll a one your plane is lost – move your plane marker on that Technology level down one.
If you lose a plane of a Technology level higher than your opponent has achieved then they may increase their Research marker by one.
Dogfights:
The remaining planes that are capable of Dogfights and did not make a Resource attack now participate in Dogfights.
Starting at Technology level 1, roll for those planes making Dogfight – the value needed to roll is on the Technology Chart. If you roll the value needed, your opponent has to move one of his plane markers on one of his Technology tracks down one (he must decrease one plane if possible – even if that plane type didn’t participate in Dogfights).
If you roll a one your plane is lost – move your plane marker on that Technology level down one.
If you lose a plane of a Technology level higher than your opponent has achieved then they may increase their Research marker by one.
Advance Timeline:
Advance the marker on the Timeline one level.
When the marker gets moved to Armistice, the game is over. The player who has the highest technological level is the winner. If both players are tied at the same technological level, then the player with the most planes built in the highest technological level would win. (1 level 3 plane would beat 4 level 2 planes).
If it is still tied then the player with the higher Resource level would win a minor victory.
If Armistice is not reached, return to the Assign Resources step.
[The format on these are a bit wonky in this medium - leave enough space between the numbers to use counters]
GERMANY
Resources: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Research: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Technology: Planes
Type 1: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Basic planes – no guns Resource attacks only (6) Cost - 1
Type 2: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Stable planes – no guns Resource attacks only (5-6) Cost - 2
Type 3: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Mounted guns Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (6) Cost - 2
Type 4: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
May shoot through props Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (5-6) Cost - 3
Type 5: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Fighter planes Dogfights only (4-6) Cost - 3
Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Armistice
1914 - 1915 - - 1915 - 1916 - - 1916 - 1917 - - 1917 - 1918 - - 1918 -
BRITAIN
Resources: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Research: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Technology: Planes
Type 1: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Basic planes – no guns Resource attacks only (6) Cost - 1
Type 2: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Stable planes – no guns Resource attacks only (5-6) Cost - 2
Type 3: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Mounted guns Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (6) Cost - 2
Type 4: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
May shoot through props Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (5-6) Cost - 3
Type 5: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Fighter planes Dogfights only (4-6) Cost - 3
The first real assignment was to design a World War I game where the primary objective of the players could not be territorial control, or capture/destroy.
Since that would leave out most of the trench warfare, and with my exposure and research I had done for Canvas Eagles, I made an airplane technology game.
Even with the standard caveats, it hasn't been tested enough; it needs more detail; I was rushed - I'm still pretty happy with the mechanics. It expresses the concepts I was trying to get across. Give it a try if you get a chance.
AIR SUPERIORITY
by DKWD
In World War I the ground battle had quickly settled into a locked battle of the trenches. In the air however, the war quickly drove research into the new technology of air warfare.
Goal:
In this two-player game, you have to try and move your technology along in aircraft development while preventing your opponent from doing the same.
Contents:
these rules,
the Technology Chart,
17 counters (9 for each player, and 1 timeline marker),
and some 6-sided dice (up to 10).
Set up:
Decide which side the players Place a counter on the Timeline on Fall 1914. Each player places a counter on their Resource track on the 10 and a counter on the Technology track on the first box.
Game play:
Each turn represents the development in 6 months of the war. Both players’ turns take place simultaneously for each step.
Assign Resources:
Each player’s Resource track will have a marker showing the current value of your country’s resources that they can allot to air superiority.
You can use the resources to buy planes at any of the current levels available to you (at applicable costs) – just move the Plane markers up one for each purchase. Some planes will allow you to make Resource attacks or Dogfights. The starting planes will only allow you to make Resource attacks.
You can also use the remaining resources to purchase rolls on the Research Track. Rolls are purchased at 1 roll per resource – move the Research marker up one per purchase.
Once all your purchases are made, reset your Resource track counter to 10 for the next turn. You can’t save resources from one turn to the next.
Research Roll:
The counter on your Research track indicates the amount of dice to roll to see if you can develop the next level of technology.
If you roll a 6 on any of the dice, you may advance your marker on the Technology track to the next level. You may only advance once per turn regardless of how many 6s you roll.
Once you have rolled all the dice allowed, reset your Research track marker back to 0.
Resource Attacks:
Decide which planes which have the capability to make Resource attacks will be doing so this turn. These planes will not be available for Dogfights this turn.
Starting at Technology level 1, roll for those planes making Resource attacks – the value needed to roll is on the Technology Chart. If you roll the value needed, your opponent has to move his marker on his Resource track down one. If you roll a one your plane is lost – move your plane marker on that Technology level down one.
If you lose a plane of a Technology level higher than your opponent has achieved then they may increase their Research marker by one.
Dogfights:
The remaining planes that are capable of Dogfights and did not make a Resource attack now participate in Dogfights.
Starting at Technology level 1, roll for those planes making Dogfight – the value needed to roll is on the Technology Chart. If you roll the value needed, your opponent has to move one of his plane markers on one of his Technology tracks down one (he must decrease one plane if possible – even if that plane type didn’t participate in Dogfights).
If you roll a one your plane is lost – move your plane marker on that Technology level down one.
If you lose a plane of a Technology level higher than your opponent has achieved then they may increase their Research marker by one.
Advance Timeline:
Advance the marker on the Timeline one level.
When the marker gets moved to Armistice, the game is over. The player who has the highest technological level is the winner. If both players are tied at the same technological level, then the player with the most planes built in the highest technological level would win. (1 level 3 plane would beat 4 level 2 planes).
If it is still tied then the player with the higher Resource level would win a minor victory.
If Armistice is not reached, return to the Assign Resources step.
[The format on these are a bit wonky in this medium - leave enough space between the numbers to use counters]
GERMANY
Resources: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Research: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Technology: Planes
Type 1: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Basic planes – no guns Resource attacks only (6) Cost - 1
Type 2: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Stable planes – no guns Resource attacks only (5-6) Cost - 2
Type 3: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Mounted guns Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (6) Cost - 2
Type 4: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
May shoot through props Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (5-6) Cost - 3
Type 5: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Fighter planes Dogfights only (4-6) Cost - 3
Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall - Armistice
1914 - 1915 - - 1915 - 1916 - - 1916 - 1917 - - 1917 - 1918 - - 1918 -
BRITAIN
Resources: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Research: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Technology: Planes
Type 1: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Basic planes – no guns Resource attacks only (6) Cost - 1
Type 2: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Stable planes – no guns Resource attacks only (5-6) Cost - 2
Type 3: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Mounted guns Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (6) Cost - 2
Type 4: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
May shoot through props Resource attacks (6) Dogfights (5-6) Cost - 3
Type 5: 0 - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10
Fighter planes Dogfights only (4-6) Cost - 3
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Double Solitaire
Remove the jokers from two decks and shuffle the rest of the deck together.
Deal out two face-down piles of 13 cards - this forms the Pile for each player. Deal 4 face-up cards to each player – these form the Stock. Deal 5 face-down cards to each player to form the Hand. The remaining cards in the deck go between the players as the Draw Pile.
The top card of the Pile is always flipped face-up in turn. You can only play the top card of the Pile on to the Play Area as allowed. You cannot play cards from the Pile onto your Stock or take them into your Hand.
During your turn, you can keep playing the top card of any column in your Stock to the Play Area as allowed. To end your turn, you must have four columns in your Stock and have to be able to play a card on one of the columns. You can play any card from your Hand to your Stock and can play this card on top of any column in your Stock. If you have less then four columns, you must first play cards from your hand to fill the empty columns before playing a card to end your turn. If you are unable to do this, you draw another 5 cards into your Hand from the Draw Pile and start your turn again.
The Play Area has space for four Stacks. Any Ace can be played into an open space and cards from the Pile, Stock, and Hand can be played on any Stack in sequence from Ace through King regardless of suit. Once a King is played on a Stack, the Stack is removed and placed in a Discard Pile. When the Draw Pile is empty, the Discard Pile is shuffled and replaces the Draw Pile.
At the start of your turn, draw enough cards from the Draw Pile to bring your Hand up to 5 cards. Play cards as allowed from your Pile, Stock, and Hand to the Play Area. When you are no longer able to play, ensure you have four columns in your Stock and play a card from your Hand to the top of one of these columns. If you empty your Hand while playing to the Play Area, draw 5 cards from the Draw Pile and restart your turn. If you empty your Hand filling columns in the Stock before being able to play a card on one of the columns, you get to draw 5 cards from the Draw Pile and restart your turn.
The first player to play the last card of their Pile wins. If playing a sequence of games, the winner scores the number of cards in their opponent’s Pile.
(pics to follow)
Deal out two face-down piles of 13 cards - this forms the Pile for each player. Deal 4 face-up cards to each player – these form the Stock. Deal 5 face-down cards to each player to form the Hand. The remaining cards in the deck go between the players as the Draw Pile.
The top card of the Pile is always flipped face-up in turn. You can only play the top card of the Pile on to the Play Area as allowed. You cannot play cards from the Pile onto your Stock or take them into your Hand.
During your turn, you can keep playing the top card of any column in your Stock to the Play Area as allowed. To end your turn, you must have four columns in your Stock and have to be able to play a card on one of the columns. You can play any card from your Hand to your Stock and can play this card on top of any column in your Stock. If you have less then four columns, you must first play cards from your hand to fill the empty columns before playing a card to end your turn. If you are unable to do this, you draw another 5 cards into your Hand from the Draw Pile and start your turn again.
The Play Area has space for four Stacks. Any Ace can be played into an open space and cards from the Pile, Stock, and Hand can be played on any Stack in sequence from Ace through King regardless of suit. Once a King is played on a Stack, the Stack is removed and placed in a Discard Pile. When the Draw Pile is empty, the Discard Pile is shuffled and replaces the Draw Pile.
At the start of your turn, draw enough cards from the Draw Pile to bring your Hand up to 5 cards. Play cards as allowed from your Pile, Stock, and Hand to the Play Area. When you are no longer able to play, ensure you have four columns in your Stock and play a card from your Hand to the top of one of these columns. If you empty your Hand while playing to the Play Area, draw 5 cards from the Draw Pile and restart your turn. If you empty your Hand filling columns in the Stock before being able to play a card on one of the columns, you get to draw 5 cards from the Draw Pile and restart your turn.
The first player to play the last card of their Pile wins. If playing a sequence of games, the winner scores the number of cards in their opponent’s Pile.
(pics to follow)
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