There was some discussion on one of the boards I am on about vehicles “in scale” to figures. With the prevalence of ‘heroic-scale’ 28mm or 30mm figures compared to the old-school 25mm figures with which I started. Games Workshop was a big reason for this. Their figures were 28mm – about right for 7 foot tall Marines and Orks but the figures were bulkier than your standard figures. This made them slightly larger than the 1/72 figures that are 25mm but they were about as wide as 1/35 figures. 1/35 accessories looked the right size as 1/72 accessories weren’t bulky enough.
The bases were another issue. Each figure was effectively standing on a soapbox which made doorways and vehicles look shorter. A lot of people recommend using 1/35 or 1/38 vehicles with the 30mm figures but they are just too big to me.
Again, I come out on the other side of the scale issue. I don’t mind if the buildings and vehicles look a tad ‘undersized’. You have to think of the game as a whole. Which is more important to the game? The buildings? The vehicles? Or the characters?
If the characters are a bit ‘larger than life’ compared to the rest of the game world, I’m okay with it. Since the figures are the most important part of the game and even still they are tiny compared to the rest of the scenery and tabletop.
In fact, I’ve even cheated the scale further (dynamic foreshortening) when I did Heroclix builings – with the ground floor of buildings being 3” tall and upper levels being only 2” tall. But then, to scale with the figures, streets would be wide open spaces and boring – both visually and game-wise.
Even when I upsized Car Wars to 1/32 scale, 1/35 figures (who should be smaller) wouldn’t fit in the cars without major surgery – like removing feet and torsos and filing heads flat. But, in that case, the cars were more important, with the people as a seldom-used component.
So, while most of the people tend to want to use even bigger vehicles to go with their over-sized figures on soapbox-height bases, I still like using vehicles and buildings that are closer to what the scale should really be – even if it looks a bit smaller when a figure is actually standing close to a vehicle or doorway.
I’ve seen a Doctor Who Miniature game from an UK convention – SALUTE that featured an oil rig. The pictures looked stunning and, even though I didn’t see it firsthand or play it, I’m sure it worked fine for the game.
But, if it was in ‘true scale’ to figures, the rig would have almost filled the entire table, leaving little room for the town.
Ultimately, do what works for you. But keep in mind the costs and practicality of both use and storage as well as transportation as need be. You may find that having a town with over a dozen slightly-smaller buildings may look more impressive and play better than having a town with only six or eight over-sized buildings made to accommodate the bases. That said, even in cheating size, you have to make sure that the vehicles and buildings are going to work with the figures you have and the space to set them up.
Monday, February 7, 2011
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Western Town - supplies
I had popped into Dollarama and picked up some more supplies for the western town. I picked up some clipboards – for the hardboard to use as bases. It’s actually cheaper to pick up a sheet of hardboard at Revy/Home Depot if you are doing a bunch but for small projects, the clipboards are a quick measure with less waste.
I also picked up some 1/4” wooden dowels, some 3/16” wooden dowels and a bamboo gate – to use for the log cabin and for fence rails.
I already have a few bags of stir sticks from both Walmart and Dollarama for the wood planks. Even at this scale, popsicle sticks are too thick for most purposes.
I also picked up some big sheets of cardboard. The wife has a tendancy to fold up my sheets if I leave them around so I usually need to buy it as I need it.
I also picked up some 1/4” wooden dowels, some 3/16” wooden dowels and a bamboo gate – to use for the log cabin and for fence rails.
I already have a few bags of stir sticks from both Walmart and Dollarama for the wood planks. Even at this scale, popsicle sticks are too thick for most purposes.
I also picked up some big sheets of cardboard. The wife has a tendancy to fold up my sheets if I leave them around so I usually need to buy it as I need it.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Upsizing Whitewash City
Okay. Forget what Eric recommends about upsizing via photocopier. It doesn’t work to upsize to 1/35.
I tried upsizing the last page of Out Buildings set (the one labeled Sheds & Privies). It did indeed upsize the width by 129% and the length by 155% as we figured it would based on the math instead of the 171% we need. This makes all the doors on the buildings about shoulder high and of varying widths depending on which way they were oriented on the page. It may still be usable for small sheds but will look odd next to a figure.
So I will have to upsize each building by hand. This is not a huge issue, but it would have been nice to quickly print out the textured pictures. I might still be able to scan them and manipulate them at home to print out at the proper size.
With the walkway, the Imperial Saloon will be a bit over 40cm long (a bit over a foot). This will make it a bit tight to lay out a town, even on a 4’ x 8’ table. Unless we set up the buildings oriented with the long side – which would make a smaller town - which should both work and be pretty accurate.
I tried upsizing the last page of Out Buildings set (the one labeled Sheds & Privies). It did indeed upsize the width by 129% and the length by 155% as we figured it would based on the math instead of the 171% we need. This makes all the doors on the buildings about shoulder high and of varying widths depending on which way they were oriented on the page. It may still be usable for small sheds but will look odd next to a figure.
So I will have to upsize each building by hand. This is not a huge issue, but it would have been nice to quickly print out the textured pictures. I might still be able to scan them and manipulate them at home to print out at the proper size.
With the walkway, the Imperial Saloon will be a bit over 40cm long (a bit over a foot). This will make it a bit tight to lay out a town, even on a 4’ x 8’ table. Unless we set up the buildings oriented with the long side – which would make a smaller town - which should both work and be pretty accurate.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Upsizing Whitewash City
So I am upsizing the Hotz Artworks Whitewash City to use with the 1/35 figures I have for Rules With No Name. I’m trying to upsize it for the larger figure scale and I ran into a bit of an issue.
I’m working with the free sample – The Imperial Saloon and the out buildings in the Pioneer Set. The listed scale is 30mm or 1/60. So I tried measuring out the buildings and redrawing them at double-size to see how they would fit. They were much too big. In checking, I had forgotten to change the print setting from fit-to-page to print actual – which meant that the 10’ scale marker was only 47cm long instead of the 2” it should have been at 1/60.
When I reprinted with the right settings, the 10’ scale marker comes out at 50cm instead of the 51cm it should be but that is actually easier as each scale foot would then be half a centimeter (or 2’ real = 1 cm scale). This means the drawings are actually closer to 1/61.200 instead of 1/60 but that is pretty close and the difference is minimal for our purposes.
Either way, my double-size redrawings (even from the smaller print) then came out way too tall for my 1/35 scale cowboy – who is 5’10” in 1/35 scale (with hat – about 5’2 without hat but the base will make him look taller). Instead of doubling, according to the math, I should really upsize the measurements by 1.71. So I will redraw at the new size and try again.
Eric recommends taking the 8.5 x 11 prints and reprinting them at 11 x 17. I will try that as well and see how that compares to the upsized drawings and to the figures. According to the math, upsizing this way will be smaller than redrawing, but the convenience of having the pretty colored versions to assemble may be worthwhile compared to having to redraw them and then use those measurements to scratchbuild the buildings. We will have to see.
- - -
For those interested in the math, as I am, it is as follows.
To find the scale: 10 feet in reality = 2 inches in scale.
120 inches = 2 inches in scale. So scale = 2/120 or 1/60.
To convert the scales: 1/60scale to 1/35scale.
1/60 x = 1/35
35x = 60
x = 60/35
x = 1.7142857 or x = 1.71
Doing the photocopy upsizing.
From 8.5 x 11 to 11 x 17.
11/8.5 = 1.2941176 and 17/11 = 1.5454545.
The figure size in scale: Figure height is 2 inches. If scale is 1/35, then 2 scale inches equals 2 x 35 = 70 real inches. 70 divided by 12 equals 5 with a remainder or 10 so the 2” figure in 1/35 scale is really 5’10”.
Without hat, the figure is a little over 1.75 inches or 1 3/4”. If scale is 1/35, the 1.75 scale inches equals 1.75 x 35 = 61.25 real inches. 61.25 less 60 (12 inches x 5 feet) leaves 1.25 so he would be about 5’2”.
I’m working with the free sample – The Imperial Saloon and the out buildings in the Pioneer Set. The listed scale is 30mm or 1/60. So I tried measuring out the buildings and redrawing them at double-size to see how they would fit. They were much too big. In checking, I had forgotten to change the print setting from fit-to-page to print actual – which meant that the 10’ scale marker was only 47cm long instead of the 2” it should have been at 1/60.
When I reprinted with the right settings, the 10’ scale marker comes out at 50cm instead of the 51cm it should be but that is actually easier as each scale foot would then be half a centimeter (or 2’ real = 1 cm scale). This means the drawings are actually closer to 1/61.200 instead of 1/60 but that is pretty close and the difference is minimal for our purposes.
Either way, my double-size redrawings (even from the smaller print) then came out way too tall for my 1/35 scale cowboy – who is 5’10” in 1/35 scale (with hat – about 5’2 without hat but the base will make him look taller). Instead of doubling, according to the math, I should really upsize the measurements by 1.71. So I will redraw at the new size and try again.
Eric recommends taking the 8.5 x 11 prints and reprinting them at 11 x 17. I will try that as well and see how that compares to the upsized drawings and to the figures. According to the math, upsizing this way will be smaller than redrawing, but the convenience of having the pretty colored versions to assemble may be worthwhile compared to having to redraw them and then use those measurements to scratchbuild the buildings. We will have to see.
- - -
For those interested in the math, as I am, it is as follows.
To find the scale: 10 feet in reality = 2 inches in scale.
120 inches = 2 inches in scale. So scale = 2/120 or 1/60.
To convert the scales: 1/60scale to 1/35scale.
1/60 x = 1/35
35x = 60
x = 60/35
x = 1.7142857 or x = 1.71
Doing the photocopy upsizing.
From 8.5 x 11 to 11 x 17.
11/8.5 = 1.2941176 and 17/11 = 1.5454545.
The figure size in scale: Figure height is 2 inches. If scale is 1/35, then 2 scale inches equals 2 x 35 = 70 real inches. 70 divided by 12 equals 5 with a remainder or 10 so the 2” figure in 1/35 scale is really 5’10”.
Without hat, the figure is a little over 1.75 inches or 1 3/4”. If scale is 1/35, the 1.75 scale inches equals 1.75 x 35 = 61.25 real inches. 61.25 less 60 (12 inches x 5 feet) leaves 1.25 so he would be about 5’2”.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Man in your Pocket
When you are making terrain or scenery, it is always a good idea to keep a figure or two of the scale in which you are working nearby. This allows you to check often to ensure that buildings, vehicles, and blockades will look proper and that figures can actually fit where you want them. This also ensures that figures can see over hills or hedges and that doorways and windows look like they could actually be used.
In addition to having the figures handy when at home, it is also a good idea to carry a figure around with you when you are out and about. When I first started into 40K, I carried an unpainted plastic beakie marine around with me for about a year. After that I had a good idea of the size needed. Plus I found that, in a pinch, if I bend my pinkie, the middle joint is close to the size of a marine (being a bit over an inch long).
With starting to make scenery for my western figures, in roughly 1/32 to 1/35 scale, I should really start carrying around a cowboy in my pocket. This would really help in trying to find horses and cattle – both of which can come in random scales and can often look tiny. This will also come in handy in finding wood I can use for scale log cabins.
I was in Dollarama recently and noticed a nice folding bamboo fence that might be a great size. I didn't pick it up yet but may pop back with a little buddy. Otherwise, I was thinking about looking at those disposable chopsticks to see if they are cheap in bulk.
In addition to having the figures handy when at home, it is also a good idea to carry a figure around with you when you are out and about. When I first started into 40K, I carried an unpainted plastic beakie marine around with me for about a year. After that I had a good idea of the size needed. Plus I found that, in a pinch, if I bend my pinkie, the middle joint is close to the size of a marine (being a bit over an inch long).
With starting to make scenery for my western figures, in roughly 1/32 to 1/35 scale, I should really start carrying around a cowboy in my pocket. This would really help in trying to find horses and cattle – both of which can come in random scales and can often look tiny. This will also come in handy in finding wood I can use for scale log cabins.
I was in Dollarama recently and noticed a nice folding bamboo fence that might be a great size. I didn't pick it up yet but may pop back with a little buddy. Otherwise, I was thinking about looking at those disposable chopsticks to see if they are cheap in bulk.
Friday, January 21, 2011
Terrain sites
I’ve had to refer some people to terrain building sites lately and have given them the classics.
Major General Tremorden Rederring’s Colonial-era Wargames Page.
This is one that I used to check in with all the time. Since it hasn’t been updated since June of 2006, it’s probably unlikely to change anytime soon. Which is a real shame as the General has a lot of good ideas. He’s mostly doing colonials but has some great information about ships, landships, and scenery. Of notable interest to the new True-Line-of-Site 40K is the Tabletop viewer and the Tall Grass section.
I just spent a bit of time going through it recently. I’m a bit sad about the lack of updates as it means that I probably won’t get to see the rules for the VictorianTech – a War of the Worlds-esque Battletech-type game.
From the Major General’s site I found the Terragenesis site – which is sadly no more. It has been replaced by the new Terragenesis site which has most of the old content on it. The Articles Index has a lot of good ideas and the forum is nice to visit. They do seem to be heavily into the contests lately, which is partly why I don’t frequent it as much as I used to. But I still recommend it to anyone about terrain projects.
A newer site that is also updated occasionally is the Hirst Arts tips section. Even though it mainly deals with using the Hirst Arts brick sets, there are a lot of useful info – like making a fence from epoxy glue, using water effects, and sci-fi ideas. I don't use any of the HirstArts products but they keep giving me ideas.
Another good site for inspiriation is the Necromundicon.
He's done a bunch of 40K and Mordheim stuff and has a good gothic feel to them. In addition, he has put up some rules for some games he made and terrain and bits for them. The Star Wars rules for the Galactic Heroes and the terrain to go with it are worth checking out.
Major General Tremorden Rederring’s Colonial-era Wargames Page.
This is one that I used to check in with all the time. Since it hasn’t been updated since June of 2006, it’s probably unlikely to change anytime soon. Which is a real shame as the General has a lot of good ideas. He’s mostly doing colonials but has some great information about ships, landships, and scenery. Of notable interest to the new True-Line-of-Site 40K is the Tabletop viewer and the Tall Grass section.
I just spent a bit of time going through it recently. I’m a bit sad about the lack of updates as it means that I probably won’t get to see the rules for the VictorianTech – a War of the Worlds-esque Battletech-type game.
From the Major General’s site I found the Terragenesis site – which is sadly no more. It has been replaced by the new Terragenesis site which has most of the old content on it. The Articles Index has a lot of good ideas and the forum is nice to visit. They do seem to be heavily into the contests lately, which is partly why I don’t frequent it as much as I used to. But I still recommend it to anyone about terrain projects.
A newer site that is also updated occasionally is the Hirst Arts tips section. Even though it mainly deals with using the Hirst Arts brick sets, there are a lot of useful info – like making a fence from epoxy glue, using water effects, and sci-fi ideas. I don't use any of the HirstArts products but they keep giving me ideas.
Another good site for inspiriation is the Necromundicon.
He's done a bunch of 40K and Mordheim stuff and has a good gothic feel to them. In addition, he has put up some rules for some games he made and terrain and bits for them. The Star Wars rules for the Galactic Heroes and the terrain to go with it are worth checking out.
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Heroclix etc overview
While I did pick up a few Heroclix last year, and picked up a brick of two of the three sets released – Brave and the Bold and Web of Spider-Man, I haven’t yet picked up a brick of DC 75. I do like the DC characters – it just seems that if I pass on a brick, it seems to be a DC one. I did also pick up the Watchmen set – also a DC.
I finished no Heroclix sets. I’m a bit closer but basically where I was last year – even a bit behind due to the new sets.
I’m still close on Ultimates (6+7), Mutant Mayhem (3+9), Legacy (6+11), Fantastic Forces (0+2), Armor Wars (11+1), Collateral Damage (8+1), Supernova (9+0), Avengers (0/3), Justice League (0/3), Mutations & Monsters (1/5), Crisis (0/11), Secret Invasion (2/6), Arkham Asylum (0/6), Hammer of Thor (3/8), Brave and Bold (8/7), and Web of Spider-Man (9/11). I’m still working away at Sinister (18+3) and Origin (23+0). I’m still deciding if I’ll pick up a brick of the last set otherwise I have DC 75 (33/11).
Right now, I need 245 figures – 140 REVs and 105 U/SRs. This is over the 200 figures I was hoping to stay under and for the first time since 2008 I am over 100 Uniques/Super Rares. A brick would have brought both of these closer.
I didn’t manage to pick up any more big figures, but have Dr Manhattan on order for spring. I am not sure how many sets are coming out this year. I hope to keep up with the sets, ending the year back under 200 figures and getting the Uniques/Super Rares back under 100 figures. I’m still hoping to get the Spectre, one of the Fooms and maybe a Phoenix as well as at least one Manhattan.
On Horrorclix, I finally got the last regular figure I needed to come my basic sets. I only need 1 LE and would like another map from the Cthulhu set. I easily achieved my goal there and would like to finish these off and put them behind me.
Where did I spend my money instead of Heroclix? I added a few more sets to the Starship Troopers miniature, finished the first two sets of Monsterpocalypse, and am now down to only 1 extra figure on Star Wars Miniature Battles. I also got back into 40K, picking up 33 codices including the Sisters of Battle rules from the second edition. I also got Armageddon, Cityfight, and Eye of Terror from third edition. Also, I bought a lot of bits – both a horde of Orks and started getting my Tyranids back up to a viable level.
I hope to get more Tyranids, and more codices – being caught up on the rest of the fourth editions I am missing. I also plan to get the Babylon 5 Call to Arms books and some of the Starship Troopers RPG books I am missing. I want to get that final ARC-170 from the Star Wars Miniature Battles figure as well as the Power of the Force Luke’s Snowspeeder. I might even get a bunch of Snowtroopers and Hoth Troopers. I also want to get the All Your Base set from Monsterpocalypse and maybe even a few more of Monsterpocalypse Now. I’m definitely picking up the Voltron set.
As well, I am thinking about picking up the FASA rules and books to Crimson Skies. While these will cut into my budget, I still hope to peg away at the older Heroclix sets and maybe even grab a few more big figures – especially if I have a game room to display them.
I finished no Heroclix sets. I’m a bit closer but basically where I was last year – even a bit behind due to the new sets.
I’m still close on Ultimates (6+7), Mutant Mayhem (3+9), Legacy (6+11), Fantastic Forces (0+2), Armor Wars (11+1), Collateral Damage (8+1), Supernova (9+0), Avengers (0/3), Justice League (0/3), Mutations & Monsters (1/5), Crisis (0/11), Secret Invasion (2/6), Arkham Asylum (0/6), Hammer of Thor (3/8), Brave and Bold (8/7), and Web of Spider-Man (9/11). I’m still working away at Sinister (18+3) and Origin (23+0). I’m still deciding if I’ll pick up a brick of the last set otherwise I have DC 75 (33/11).
Right now, I need 245 figures – 140 REVs and 105 U/SRs. This is over the 200 figures I was hoping to stay under and for the first time since 2008 I am over 100 Uniques/Super Rares. A brick would have brought both of these closer.
I didn’t manage to pick up any more big figures, but have Dr Manhattan on order for spring. I am not sure how many sets are coming out this year. I hope to keep up with the sets, ending the year back under 200 figures and getting the Uniques/Super Rares back under 100 figures. I’m still hoping to get the Spectre, one of the Fooms and maybe a Phoenix as well as at least one Manhattan.
On Horrorclix, I finally got the last regular figure I needed to come my basic sets. I only need 1 LE and would like another map from the Cthulhu set. I easily achieved my goal there and would like to finish these off and put them behind me.
Where did I spend my money instead of Heroclix? I added a few more sets to the Starship Troopers miniature, finished the first two sets of Monsterpocalypse, and am now down to only 1 extra figure on Star Wars Miniature Battles. I also got back into 40K, picking up 33 codices including the Sisters of Battle rules from the second edition. I also got Armageddon, Cityfight, and Eye of Terror from third edition. Also, I bought a lot of bits – both a horde of Orks and started getting my Tyranids back up to a viable level.
I hope to get more Tyranids, and more codices – being caught up on the rest of the fourth editions I am missing. I also plan to get the Babylon 5 Call to Arms books and some of the Starship Troopers RPG books I am missing. I want to get that final ARC-170 from the Star Wars Miniature Battles figure as well as the Power of the Force Luke’s Snowspeeder. I might even get a bunch of Snowtroopers and Hoth Troopers. I also want to get the All Your Base set from Monsterpocalypse and maybe even a few more of Monsterpocalypse Now. I’m definitely picking up the Voltron set.
As well, I am thinking about picking up the FASA rules and books to Crimson Skies. While these will cut into my budget, I still hope to peg away at the older Heroclix sets and maybe even grab a few more big figures – especially if I have a game room to display them.
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